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TOPKAPI
PALACE
One of the most astounding and popular places
to visit in Istanbul is Topkapi Palace, the symbolic and political
centre of the Ottoman Empire between the 15th and 19th centuries.
It stands on the tip of land where the Golden Horn, the Sea of
Marmara and the Bosporus come together, and is a maze of buildings
centered around a series of courtyards, typical of Islamic
tradition. Such is the complexity of each building, it will take
many hours in order to be explored properly.
It was built between 1466 and 1478, a couple of
years before the death of Fatih. Unlike any European Palace, its
architecture is predominantly Middle Eastern in character. The
initial construction was Cinili Mansion, a Glass Palace finished
in 1472, and the imposing main gate facing Sultanahmet, Bab-I
Humayun, and the Palace ramparts, were completed in 1478.
There were originally 750 residents of the
Palace, during Fatihs period, which became drastically more
congested reaching 5000 during normal days and 10,000 during
festivals. Extensions had to be built, and the harem was completed
in 1595 during the third Sultan Murads era, after which the harem
residents were moved in from the palace at Beyazit, with a total
of 474 concubines. Special tours of the Harem are available. The
Harem, literally meaning forbidden in Arabic, was the suite of
apartments in the palace belonging to the wives, concubines and
children of the head of the household.
Around the Harem were the Circumcision Room,
the apartments of the Chief Black Eunuch, and apartments of the
sultan in total over 400 rooms. Other highlights in the Palace
are the Spoonmakers Diamond (the fourth largest diamond in the
world), the Topkapi Dagger, (a gift from Mahmut I), a vast
collection of paintings and miniatures, and the Pavilion of the
Holy Mantle (including a footprint, a tooth and a hair of the
Prophet Mohammed).
Opening hours: Daily 09.00 17.00, winter
closed Tuesday.
HAGIA SOPHIA (AYASOFYA) MUSEUM
Aya Sophia was, for nearly a thousand years, the largest enclosed
space in the world, and still seen as one of the worlds most
important architectural monuments. It is one of Turkeys most
popular attractions, drawn by the sheer spectacle of its size,
architecture, mosaics and art.
For 916 years it was a church, then a mosque for 481 years, and
since 1935 has been a museum. Thought to have been constructed by
Emperor Konstantinos I (324 337) it was burned down during a
revolt. Rebuilt by Emperor Theodosium II, it was opened for
worship in 415 and once again was burned to the ground, during the
Nika revolts of 532.
Emperor Iustanianus (527 565) wanted to
construct something even bigger than the original two and
appointed architects Isidoros from Miletos, and Anthemios from
Tralles to build the Aya Sophia which still stands. Columns,
heads, marble and coloured stones were imported to Istanbul from
ancient cities in Anatolia for the purpose.
The construction began on 23 December 532, and
was completed exactly five years later. The main, central section
measured 100m x 70m, covered with a 55m high dome which was a
mammoth 30m in diameter appearing to be a great feat of design.
The mosaics are of great importance, and the oldest ones are
dominated by geometric and plant motifs decorated with gold.
The worst desecration of the church was in
1204, ransacked by Catholic soldiers during the Fourth Crusade. In
1453, after a failure of the Byzantine Church to fend off the
Turks, Mehmet the Conqueror captured the city, rode into Aya Sofia
and immediately turned it into a mosque. It was repaired several
times, and Islamic ornamentation added, for example an extract of
the Koran by calligrapher Izzet Efendi inscribed on the dome. The
other reminders of its previous status as a mosque include huge
wooden plaques bearing the names of Allah, the Prophet Mohammed
and the first four caliphs.
The marble and mosaics remain the most
interesting aspects today. The columns supporting the gallery are
made from antique marble, and in the western gallery is the green
marble which marks the position of the throne of the Empress. The
impressive figurative mosaics include Virgin and Child flanked by
two emperors, dating back to the late 10th century, and one
depicting Christ, the Virgin, and St John the Baptists. Even
though there is partial damage, the haunting images on their faces
remain as strong as ever.
Opening hours: 09.30 - 16.30, daily except
Monday.
YEREBATAN SARNICI (BASILICA/UNDERGROUND CISTERN)
Nearby Aya Sofia is the 6th century Byzantine underground Basilica
cistern, with 335 massive Corinthian columns supporting the
immense chambers fine brick vaulting. This is one of several
buried into the citys foundations, and the first to have been
excavated and renovated. Thought to have been built in the 4th
century by the emperor Constantine, then enlarged two centuries
later, it was supplied with water from Belgrade Forest, amd
supplied it to the Great Palace and Topkapi Palace.
It fell into disuse and was then restored in
1987 with the mud and water removed, and narrow raised pathways
providing easy access for visitors. It is the largest covered
cistern in the city, measuring 140 by 70 metres.
Opening hours: 09.00 - 17.00 closed Tuesdays.
KAPALI CARSI (GRAND BAZAAR)
The oldest and biggest closed bazaar in the world, also known as
the Grand Bazaar, has around 4000 shops and over 60 alleyway,
covering a huge labyrinth in the city centre. The original two
structures, covered with a series of domes and remains of the 15th
century walls, became a shopping area by covering the surrounding
streets and adding to it over the following centuries. In Ottoman
times this was the centre of trading, and a vital area of town.
The Sandal Bedesten was added during Suleymans reign, to cope
with the rising trade in fabrics, during the 16th century.
Traditionally the more valuable goods were in
the old central area, called Ic Bedesten, because it was more
secure. As quite typical of the area, most streets are laid out
and devoted to a particular trade, for example gold on Kuyumcular
Caddesi, leather on Bodrum Han, and shoes on Kavaflar Sokak. But
the trade has also spilled out onto the surrounding streets, and
it is very common to see Russian traders buying up huge sacks of
leather jackets or shoes outside the main entrance. Even the
streets leading to the Golden Horn are lined with outdoor stalls,
which have traditionally been controlled by strict trading laws to
reduce competition between traders.
Apart from the usual shops selling clothes,
textiles, jewellry and carpets, there are small workshops where
craftsmen cast and beat silver or brass, in a skilled trade handed
down through the generations. If all that shopping, bargaining and
fending off persuasive salesmen is a little too tiring, there are
also traditional cafes dotted inside the bazaar in which to relax,
eat and sip tea. There are also money-changing booths inside and
out. It is slightly less crowded during weekdays, as most locals
shop at weekends.
KARIYE MUSEUM
Now serving as a museum, this is actually Kariye Mosque, once the
11th century church of St Saviour in Chora. It is considered to be
the most important Byzantine monument in Istanbul, after Hagia
Sofia. Whilst unremarkable in its architecture, the interior walls
are decorated with superb 14th century mosaics. Illustrating
scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary, these
brilliantly colored paintings embody the vigor of Byzantine art.
With the restored wooden houses, the surrounding area is a good
place for relaxation and refreshment.
Opening hours: 09.30 16.30, closed Wednesdays.
Location: Edirnekapi, Fatih / Istanbul
Nearest Public Transportation Point: Edirnekapi public bus station
Web (unofficial website):
http://www.choramuseum.com/
HIPPODROME
The ancient Hippodrome, scene of chariot races and the centre of
Byzantine civic life, stands in the area that is now in front of
the Blue Mosque, and now part of Sultanahmet. Of the ornaments
which once decorated it, only three remain: The Obelisk of
Theodosius, the bronze Serpentine Column, and the Column of
Constantine. Remains of the curved end of the Hippodrome wall can
be seen on the southwest side of the three.
Today, the square forms the centre of
Istanbuls historical, cultural and tourist life, and the
surrounding wooden houses especially the 18th century ones on
Sogukcesme Sokak were recently restored giving them a new lease
of life as small hotels.
SULTANAHMET (GERMAN) FOUNTAIN
Also known as Ahmet III Fountain, it lies in front of Bab-I
Humayun, the gate of Topkapi Palace. Considered an artistic
masterpiece, it is intricately decorated with wooden eaves,
masonry and bronze calligraphy. It is altogether different to the
periods more classical, modest style, and became a unique example
of an elegant, rich beauty.
YEDIKULE ZINDANLARI (DUNGEONS)
The Yedikule (Seven Towers) city gate is located along the 5,632
meter-long land walls, which start at the end of the sea walls. It
is one of the main entrances to the city. Over the gate, there is
the double-headed eagle of Byzantium. Inside Yedikule is another
imposing gate, built in 390 by Theodosius I as the arch of victory
for the commanders returning home from victorious battle. It was
later turned into one of the fortress gates after Theodosius II
added the new city walls to the old ones. The Byzantines called
this gate Porta Aurea (golden gate). After the conquest, the Turks
added new fortress which formed an independent castle and gave it
the name Yedikule. The Ottoman Treasury was kept in this tower for
a while, and it was turned into a prison for political prisoners
in later times. Only the ruins of the minaret of the mosque which
was built for the guardians can be seen today. The ruins of the
amphitheater also remain.
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